Annual Leave Explorers

A trip to Yellowknife isn’t usually people’s first thought when planning a long weekend, but it is 100% worth it and genuinely a trip you will never forget. Yellowknife, the capital of the Northwest Territories, was only established in the 1930s following the discovery of gold (and later diamonds), and it still very much feels like a frontier town at the edge of the Arctic.

The town itself is small, you can walk the main high street in about 30 minutes, and while it doesn’t have a huge number of shops, restaurants or bars, the places it does have are full of character and absolutely worth visiting. What Yellowknife lacks in size, it more than makes up for in atmosphere, culture and once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Why go to Yellowknife? It is one of the most reliable places in the world to see the Northern Lights, it offers a landscape unlike anywhere else, it’s a chance to experience real Arctic living, and there are loads of winter activities such as dog sledding, ice fishing and snowmobiling. Add frozen lakes you can walk and drive on, ice roads, fascinating Indigenous culture, and big, open skies, and you have a long weekend that feels like a true adventure.

The cold (this is important)

The first thing to know about Yellowknife in winter is the cold, it is absolutely freezing. When we first landed it was a manageable -15°C, but about five hours later it dropped to -35°C. Coming from Toronto, we already had winter jackets and wore a lot of layers (remember layers on your legs as well as your top half), but many tourists choose to rent proper Arctic clothing once they arrive.

Clothing rental is very common and very easy to organise, and honestly a great option if you don’t already own extreme cold-weather gear. You can rent full outfits including boots, trousers, jackets, gloves and hats here: https://spectacularnwt.com/amenities/winter-clothing-rental-0/

A few cold-weather tips:

• Cover all exposed skin when outside for long periods
• Bring hand and toe warmers
• Expect your phone battery to drain much faster in the cold
• Give yourself extra time to warm up between activities

Where to stay in Yellowknife

Yellowknife is small, but where you stay really does affect your experience. We stayed in Old Town, about a 15-minute walk from the main street, and I absolutely loved it. Old Town feels quieter and more atmospheric, with cabins and houses scattered along the edge of Great Slave Lake. Looking out over the frozen lake at night also meant clearer, darker skies, and noticeably better Northern Lights visibility just outside the town centre.

You can also stay right downtown, which makes popping into restaurants and bars very easy. Walking is possible in winter, but it can be challenging purely because of the cold rather than distance. Both Old Town and downtown are good options, but I would avoid staying near the Walmart area or near the airport, as you are far from everything and it loses the charm of being in Yellowknife itself.

Places to stay in Yellowknife

Aurora Bayside Inn: https://booking.tpx.gr/kqGWs3bP

This was really good, affordable accommodation and felt very cosy. We stayed in a cabin overlooking the lake, which had everything we needed and was extremely warm (very important). Waking up to views over the frozen lake and checking the sky from the window at night was a huge bonus.

Great Northern Escapes: https://booking.tpx.gr/zG2Cy2DK

This also looks like a lovely option and is located right in downtown Yellowknife, making it very convenient for food, drinks and getting around.

Taxis and getting around

When you arrive at Yellowknife airport, taxis will be waiting outside and this is by far the easiest way to get into town. I don’t really remember seeing a bus service, and there is no Uber or ride-sharing. A taxi costs around $20 for the very short journey into town.

Taxis wait until the last plane arrives, and there are numbers to call from the airport if needed. Around town, taxis are easy to hail or call, and you won’t be stuck waiting long. A useful local number is (867) 873-6666.

If you plan to chase the Northern Lights independently or explore outside town, renting a car (even just for one night) is a great option.

Seeing the Northern Lights

This is, understandably, one of the main reasons people visit Yellowknife in winter, and it really delivers. We actually saw the Aurora on our taxi drive from the airport, which set expectations very high straight away. Yellowknife is considered one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights thanks to its location under the auroral oval, low light pollution and clear skies.

There are lots of ways to see the Aurora:

• Aurora village tours, where you stay in one location and experience a more traditional setting
• Bus tours, where guides drive around trying to find clear skies
• Self-driving, which is what we chose to do

We rented a car and drove ourselves. While I’m sure the Aurora village experience is beautiful, it was incredibly expensive, which is why we opted to go independently. I personally wouldn’t recommend the bus tours, you are quite restricted and surrounded by other tourists. Having your own car gives you flexibility and a much quieter experience.

You can easily rent a car at the airport. There is essentially one main road in and out of Yellowknife and it is well maintained in winter, but you should always drive slowly and carefully. There are designated lay-bys for Aurora viewing – don’t just pull over anywhere. Maps showing safe stopping points are available at the airport, visitor centre and online, and honestly they are all equally good.

Be prepared for late nights. Both times we saw the Aurora it was around 1:30am. We drove between different spots just to stay warm and occupied, but ultimately it comes down to luck, the lights are in the sky, after all.

To help plan your night:

• Use the app My Aurora Forecast & Alerts to track KP levels
• Check the live webcam at https://auroramax.com/ – it streams every winter night

We stayed in our cabin watching the webcam and only headed out once the lights appeared, which saved us from driving around in the cold unnecessarily.

Dog sledding

Dog sledding was one of the highlights of the trip and something I would highly recommend. We booked the day before, but most slots were already full, so booking a couple of days in advance is definitely wise.

We did this tour: https://arctictourscanada.rezdy.com/56406/yellowknife-dog-sledding-tours

It was well priced and run by an amazing woman with wonderful, well-cared-for dogs. We were strapped into a sled and taken out for around 20 minutes, which was the perfect amount of time in the extreme cold. Group sizes were small and we had plenty of time to meet and interact with the dogs afterwards.

There is also a dog sledding experience I wish we had done: https://www.sundogadventures.ca/

Here, you stand up on the sled and control a team of two dogs yourself, which looks like an incredible hands-on experience.

Another tour that came highly recommended, with beautiful scenery, is: https://getyourguide.tpx.gr/6wfuApUh

Overall, it didn’t seem like there were any bad options, dog sledding in Yellowknife is clearly taken very seriously and done well.

Other winter activities in Yellowknife

There is a surprising amount to do for a small town, especially in winter:

• Ice roads & Dettah: If you visit after January, the ice highway may be open. This allows you to drive across the frozen lake to Dettah, a small Indigenous community just outside Yellowknife. Driving on a frozen lake is a surreal experience and a real highlight.
• Visitor Centre: Well worth a stop. The staff are incredibly helpful, full of local knowledge, and the centre also showcases beautiful local art and crafts.
• Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Museum:
  A fantastic museum with excellent natural history exhibitions focused on northern wildlife, geology and climate, as well as the history of Yellowknife and the Northwest Territories. Everything is laid out clearly, and they often host interesting talks and lectures.
• Ice fishing: Ice fishing is a classic northern experience. You fish through holes drilled deep into the frozen lake, often in heated huts, making it surprisingly comfortable even in extreme temperatures.
• Snowmobiling and ice caves: Snowmobiling is a popular way to explore the frozen landscape and reach ice caves and remote areas around Yellowknife. A good tour option is here: https://getyourguide.tpx.gr/Zz5eDwjs

Places to eat and drink

There aren’t loads of options in town, but the places that are there are full of character and warmth, exactly what you want after being outside in the cold.

• Bullock’s Bistro: Probably the most famous restaurant in Yellowknife. Everyone raves about it, especially for fresh fish, but it is expensive and very popular, so expect a wait.
• Yellowknife Brewing Company: A great atmosphere, classic brewery food, and good local beers. Well worth a visit for a relaxed evening.
• The Black Knight Pub: A cosy, welcoming pub with solid pub food. I highly recommend the lobster mac and cheese, very comforting and classic British pub style.

Final thoughts

Yellowknife is not a typical city break, and that’s exactly why it’s so special. A long weekend here feels like stepping into another world: Colder, quieter, wilder, and unforgettable. If you’re looking for a trip that is genuinely different, full of natural wonder and Arctic adventure, Yellowknife should be very high on your list.