One of the most impressive, jaw-dropping hiking adventures I have ever done is hiking in Jotunheimen National Park. This trip was designed to be as budget-friendly as possible, and thanks to Norway’s free camping laws, it can be one of the cheapest ways to experience the country’s breathtaking landscapes. In Norway, you can camp almost anywhere for free, making it an ideal destination for an affordable yet unforgettable outdoor adventure. Even if you choose to stay at campsites, they are reasonably priced compared to other accommodations in Norway.
Getting There and Staying in Oslo
We flew from London to Oslo, which often has cheap flight options. While Oslo is an expensive city, we managed to keep costs low by staying in a private room in an affordable hostel with a kitchen, allowing us to cook our own meals. There are also several budget-friendly accommodation options in Oslo, which I will link to below.
Oslo offers plenty of free attractions, making it easy to explore without spending much money. You can visit the stunning Opera House, which has a rooftop you can walk on for great views, stroll along the waterfront, or explore the famous Vigeland Sculpture Park. There are also plenty of picnic spots around the city, a great way to enjoy an inexpensive meal.
Journey to Jotunheimen and Besseggen Ridge Hike
The next day, we took a bus from Oslo to Gjendesheim, which took about 4-5 hours. From here, you have two options for hiking Besseggen Ridge:
- Hike with your full gear: This 14 km hike is very mountainous, and if you plan to camp midway, you will need to carry all your camping gear. This allows you to take your time but makes the hike more physically demanding, especially in the scrambling sections.
- Use the ferry for your gear: You can stay at the campsite near Gjendesheim and pay to have your big backpack transported by ferry to the campsite at the other end of the hike. This way, you can hike the ridge with just a small daypack, making the experience much easier and more enjoyable.
For those who prefer extra support, guided hikes are available for Besseggen Ridge. I will link to a recommended guide below.
The trail is well-marked, with people hiking in both directions. It can be the beginning or end of a longer trek through Jotunheimen.
We spent the night at the campsite on the other side of Besseggen Ridge, which is next to a beautiful river. The campsite has good amenities, and since we were heading deeper into the park afterward, we took full advantage of the facilities.
Multi-Day Hike Through Jotunheimen
Over the next four days, we followed a stunning route through the park, hiking about five hours per day with relaxed lunch breaks. The first section led us through a lush valley with an abundance of fresh water. We walked past a herd of cows grazing in green pastures and even found a large waterfall where we could rinse off—it was absolutely stunning.
As the hike progressed, the landscape changed dramatically. The green valley gave way to a rocky, barren expanse that felt almost otherworldly. This section is slow-going due to the unstable rocks underfoot. If you find yourself reaching this rocky terrain late in the afternoon, I highly recommend stopping to camp in the grassy area beforehand. We made the mistake of pressing on too late and ended up hiking past 10 pm, completely exhausted.
Good, sturdy hiking boots with ankle support are essential here, as it’s easy to roll an ankle on the uneven terrain. The trail is marked by red ‘T’ symbols across the rocky outcrop, but they can sometimes be hard to spot. Always keep an eye out, but rest assured that you are likely on the right path even if the markers seem far apart.
Eventually, the terrain flattens out into another beautiful valley as you approach the settlement of Spiterstulen. As you walk through this valley, be sure to look around—there are some incredible glaciers visible on both sides.
Climbing Galdhøpiggen: The Highest Peak in the Nordics
Spiterstulen is the starting point for climbing Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Northern Europe at 2,469m (8,100ft). If you have the time, I highly recommend taking a couple of extra days here to attempt the climb. The area also has a small café and shop, making it a great place to rest before or after the ascent.
Routes Up Galdhøpiggen
- Guided Glacier Route from Juvasshytta:
- This route crosses a glacier and requires a guide, as navigating glaciers alone can be dangerous. It’s a shorter ascent but offers the unique experience of hiking across stunning ice formations.
- Independent Route from Spiterstulen:
- This is the longer but more popular route, as it does not require a guide. While it’s a challenging hike with about 1,300 meters of elevation gain, it is doable for anyone with good fitness.
- The trail begins at Spiterstulen (1,100m) and gradually ascends through alpine tundra, featuring stunted trees, summer flowers, and small streams.
- As you climb higher, the tundra gives way to bare gravel and patches of snow, which become more frequent as you near the summit.
- The path follows a rocky ridge, passing two ‘false summits’: Svellnose (2,272m) and Keilhaustopp (2,355m). From here, it’s a steep hike over snow-covered boulders to the summit.
- Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible panoramic view of the Jotunheimen Mountains and glaciers. If you’re lucky, you may even have the summit to yourself, as we did. There is a small shelter at the top where you can take refuge if it’s windy, and during peak times, a kiosk offers refreshments.
Make sure to leave early, as the hike takes 8-10 hours round-trip. If you find yourself going slower than expected, turn around before nightfall, as descending in the dark is not advisable.
Returning to Oslo
From Spiterstulen, you can catch a bus to Fossbergom, where another bus will take you back to Oslo. Fossbergom is a charming town with a couple of campsites, making it worth a short visit.
Both Spiterstulen and Fossbergom are small towns with clear bus stations, so it’s easy to figure out your route. However, be aware of public holidays, as buses may not run. We encountered this issue and had to walk part of the way along the road—not ideal, but doable if necessary.
Final Thoughts
Jotunheimen National Park offers one of the most breathtaking hiking experiences in the world, and thanks to Norway’s free camping laws, it’s an incredibly affordable way to see the country. Whether you’re tackling Besseggen Ridge, exploring the dramatic landscapes of the park, or summiting Galdhøpiggen, this is an adventure you’ll never forget.
With careful planning, a bit of flexibility, and the right gear, you can experience the best of Norway’s wilderness without breaking the bank.
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